Hanoi winter packing list for travellers who packed for summer

You planned for Hội An beaches and Mekong heat, and Hà Nội greets you with a grey sky, drizzle and 14 °C. Northern Vietnam has a real winter from December to February, and most of it is spent outdoors — on a plastic stool, on a scooter, on the Old Quarter pavement. This is the short list of what to add, and where to find it a few minutes' walk from the Hanoi train street.

Hanoi weather, November to February

Long-term averages for downtown Hà Nội (Hoàn Kiếm / Đống Đa) (source: Wikipedia climate box, Vietnam Institute for Building Science and Technology).

MonthDaytime highNight lowRainSunFeels like
Novemberabout 26 °Cabout 19 °C~67 mm, ~7 rainy days~132 hThe good month. Warm afternoons, cool evenings. One light layer.
Decemberabout 22 °Cabout 16 °C~20 mm, ~5 rainy days~113 hDry but turning grey. First cold fronts arrive; evenings on the lake need a fleece.
Januaryabout 20 °Cabout 15 °C~23 mm, ~10 rainy days~69 hColdest month. Little sun, drizzle, 80 % humidity. Record low 2.7 °C.
Februaryabout 21 °Cabout 16 °C~25 mm, ~11 rainy days~48 hThe dampest month: "mưa phùn" drizzle most days, mould-grey light, the fewest sunshine hours of the year.

Why 15 °C here feels like 8 °C at home: the air is 80 % humid, the wind comes down the streets off the Red River, and almost nothing is heated — not the café, not the homestay room, not the bus to Ninh Bình. Cold fronts from the north drop temperatures 5–10 °C overnight and keep them there for several days.

Packed for summer? The five things to add

In order of how often people actually buy them:

  1. A fleece. The single most useful item from December to February. Light enough to wear indoors, warm enough for a plastic stool at 9 p.m.
  2. A windproof or rain shell. Hà Nội's winter rain is a fine drizzle that soaks through a hoodie in twenty minutes. A thin shell over the fleece handles wind, drizzle and the back of a scooter.
  3. Long trousers, one pair that stretches and dries fast. Jeans get wet and stay wet in February.
  4. Closed shoes and socks. Flip-flops on a wet Old Quarter pavement in January are the fastest way to feel miserable.
  5. A beanie and a scarf for evenings, early trains and the Hạ Long or Ninh Bình boat. Gloves if you plan on a motorbike.

Travelling with children: a kids' fleece and a hooded shell first; everything else is optional.

A rack of fleece jackets at The Gate Tam Cốc
Windbreakers and light jackets on a rack by the window

What to wear where

Where to buy warm layers near Train Street and the Old Quarter

The Gate Tôn Thất Thiệp at night: lit "the GATE" sign over the glass front, two floors
The Gate Tôn Thất Thiệp — the lit sign over the glass front, two floors.

The Gate Tôn Thất Thiệp is at 27 ngõ 8 Tôn Thất Thiệp, Ba Đình — a two-floor shop in a quiet alley a short walk from the Hanoi train street and about a kilometre west of Hoàn Kiếm Lake. It is open 09:00–22:00 every day, so it works after a day of sightseeing or before an early train.

The store sells export-surplus outdoor and everyday clothing — made in Vietnam for international outdoor labels, sold from the surplus of those runs — for men, women and children, with the price printed on every tag. For winter: fleece jackets and pullovers, puffer vests and light puffers, windbreakers and rain jackets, trekking trousers, beanies and scarves, and a kids' outdoor rack. Try the fleece on with the shell over it before you decide.

Staying south of the centre? The Nguyễn Trãi store (86 ngõ 72 Nguyễn Trãi) keeps the same hours. Heading on to Ninh Bình? There are two Tam Cốc stores, one near the boat dock, and anything bought in Hà Nội can be exchanged there.

A three-day Hanoi winter capsule

One extra kilo in the bag, and it covers Hà Nội, Hạ Long and Tam Cốc from December to February.

Quick answers

Is Hanoi cold in January?
Yes, by Southeast Asian standards. January averages about 15–20 °C, but cold fronts bring grey, drizzly days around 10 °C, the record low is 2.7 °C, and almost nothing is heated. Bring or buy a fleece, a windproof layer and closed shoes.
Where can I buy a jacket near the Old Quarter or Train Street?
The Gate Tôn Thất Thiệp, 27 ngõ 8 Tôn Thất Thiệp, Ba Đình — a short walk from the train street, open 09:00–22:00 every day — sells fleece, puffer vests, windbreakers, rain jackets, trousers, beanies and kids' outdoor clothing.
Can I exchange something I bought?
Yes. Exchange within 7 days, or return for a refund within 3 days, with the receipt and tags, unworn and unwashed, at any The Gate store — including Tam Cốc if you travel on. Sale items can be exchanged but not refunded.
Do I need an umbrella in Hanoi in winter?
A packable rain shell is more useful than an umbrella: winter rain is a fine drizzle, often with wind, and you will have your hands full on a scooter or a boat. An umbrella is fine for the city streets if you already carry one.

Sources